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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.